A WEEK IN MARSEILLE

My brother moved to Marseille over a year ago. It's an opportunity for me to visit him every two months and explore the city and its paths to share addresses and other Marseille tips with you.

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Where to eat?

Limmat, My best culinary memory of Marseille is hidden amidst the colorful staircases.
41 Rue Jean-Baptiste-Estelle, 13006 Marseille

Livingston,
the latest addition from the trio Julia Mitton, Harry Cummins, and Laura Vidal. In the heart of Cours Ju. Marseille's first restaurant/orange wine bar. Warm atmosphere, Mediterranean cuisine, and good bottles.
5 rue crudère, 13006 Marseille

La Mercerie, which needs no introduction. Voted best sophistroquet by Fooding in 2019, the trio mentioned above offers gourmet cuisine with quality local products. 
9 Cr Saint-Louis, 13001 Marseille
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À Moro
YUM. Zinc bar, changing specials, and Italo/Bistro cuisine.
3 Rue Venture 13001 Marseille

Coquilles, not far from the old port, for good fish and seafood. 
8 Rue Euthymènes, 13001 Marseille

La Bonne Mère, for the best pizza! 
16 Rue Fort du Sanctuaire, 13006 Marseille

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The Toche sisters, Louise (front of house) and Julia (in the kitchen), have opened a stylish restaurant just a stone's throw from the old port. A lovely place with generous, gourmet cuisine.
13 Rue Haxo,13001 Marseille

Crabe Toro
A small bistro nestled at the bottom of the old port, on the Panier side. We stop there for their grilled octopus sandwiches, which look great on the pretty tablecloths.
17 Rue Caisserie, 13002 Marseille

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Restaurant - Grocery store?

L'Ideal
A Mediterranean pantry in the heart of Noailles: spices, vegetables, cured meats, but also a wine cellar and local specialties... You can buy to go or sit on the terrace to enjoy.
11 Rue d'Aubagne

Jogging
grocery store-restaurant-concept store ULTRA hipster. But everything is really pretty, organic, and locally sourced.
103 rue de Paradis

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Sweet tooth?

Vanille Noire
Eat an ice cream in summer at Vanille Noire, in Le Panier, and try the apple-chili flavor. Delicious.
2 rue Lorette, 13002 Marseille

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vanille noire marseilleAperitif time?

The best thing to do is to grab a bottle and some glasses and settle on the rocks of Endoume to watch the sunset and enjoy a last quiet swim. But if you can't stand having your bottom on the ground and salty skin... head to...

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the unmissable Café de l'Abbaye for its combo: sunset + pastis + panisse, 
La Passerelle for good wine and meeting friends,
Le Café La Muse or on La Plaine where there are many spots for a drink in the sun.

What to visit?

The Basilica of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde, aka the Bonne Mère who watches over the city like a guardian.

La Cité Radieuse
This avant-garde building designed by Le Corbusier in 1952 takes us on a journey through time. A UNESCO World Heritage site since 2016, it is an architectural beauty.
280 boulevard Michelet, 13008 Marseille

The MUCEM, with its 45,000 m², it is the first large national museum dedicated to Mediterranean civilizations for the 21st century 
1 Esp. J4, 13002 Marseille

The Cathédrale de la Major or Sainte-Marie-Majeure, it was built in a neo-Byzantine style by architect Léon Vaudoyer between 1852 and 1893.

And then we stroll along the old port, in the Vallon des Auffes, Rue d'Aubagne, in the Panier district...

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Want to swim?

Instead of the city beaches, we prefer the rocks of MalmousqueFrioul Island opposite, or further afield, hiking then lounging in the turquoise waters of the Calanques! The best part? Renting a boat in summer for a dip offshore!

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And for those who would like to decorate their walls or display a souvenir of their visit to Marseille, you can order my illustration.

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